Once a key transport route and a source of growth but also occasional threats, now a major tourist attraction – what does the Vistula mean to Kraków?
On the currents of history
It’s no accident that the world’s oldest civilisations developed by major rivers – they provided drinking water and supported the economy, in particular agriculture and trade. Moving goods on river barges was the cheapest form of transport for centuries, and running water is a natural energy source. Rivers also played an important role in defending cities, since they could serve as a barrier. These economic, social and cultural factors are explored at the exhibition The Vistula, Queen of Polish Rivers at the Emeryk Hutten-Czapski Museum, branch of the National Museum in Krakow. Told through early books, maps, woodcuts, copperplates, atlases and plans, it takes us on a journey along the river by telling the story of settlements along it.
Unsettled symbiosis
The natural symbiosis between rivers and cities has been gradually degrading over the years. The problems were furthered by progressing climate change and intensive rainfall, as well as the heat island effect. The belief that it is necessary to regulate rivers to eliminate threats and limit damage has been shown to be untrue. Today, growing numbers of scientists and engineers stress the need to create modern, environmentally-friendly, sustainable development plans for river management.
Revitalisation
With the arrival of the new millennium, people have increasingly started to see benefits of river locations. Revitalisation of riversides as attractive places for recreation is an important element of urban development. A significant move is reversing the damage caused by industry and urbanisation along old river courses, for example the Nowa Huta Meadows with their rich flora and fauna included in the Natura 2000 programme in 2011. The ongoing exhibition Vistula. Re-creation at the Krzysztofory Palace, prepared by the Museum of Krakow, is a fascinating insight into the current role played by the river in Kraków. “In our discussion about the Vistula, we decided against presenting it as a monograph of its history. We focus on the non-economic uses of rivers in cities, in particular the Vistula. In short, we are talking about the benefits and pleasure of interacting with the river – about recreation by the Vistula,” writes Michał Niezabitowski, director of the Museum of Krakow, in the exhibition catalogue. The exhibition also covers the project “Vistula Connects”, developed following social consultation conducted by the city’s department for the environment and aiming to revitalise the Vistula Boulevards on the left bank between the Rodła Boulevard and the Kotlarski Bridge.
Crocodile
“The 19th century saw a rapid growth of interest in recreation as a deliberate way of spending free time,” states Małgorzata Orlewicz-Musiał in the catalogue. For Cracovians, one of the most accessible local attractions was the river, although in the early days only men took to bathing. “To provide women with access to the beneficial contact with the river, it was necessary to develop suitable infrastructure – the first changing rooms and bathrooms were opened in 1835. But recreation wasn’t the main reason for their development in a city with no mains water; instead, it was the benefits to hygiene and health,” adds Anna Kwiatek. By the 1930s, Kraków had several “professional” foreshores equipped with changing rooms, loungers, buffets and volleyball courts. The earliest was the famous beach “Crocodile” founded in 1930 near the Norbertine Convent, named in memory of the alligator which escaped from a travelling zoo in 1897. Sunbathing at the foot of Wawel Hill remained popular until the 1960s.
Navigation
When we talk about navigating the Vistula, we usually think about the raftsmen who once transported goods on river barges. Although they and their craft disappeared from the city in the mid-20th century, fortunately in 2006 a group of dedicated fans worked with shipwrights to recreate a few traditional boats. One was used by the Lajkonik last year, when the pandemic meant he couldn’t do his usual cavorting through the city. This season (between June and October), the barge “Szwajcarka” under the banner of the Museum of Krakow will travel to several locations along the river, in Kraków and beyond, carrying a mobile exhibition. The “port”, recreated by the mouth of the Rudawa River, will host a cycle of educational events. At stationary lectures, invited guests and museum employees will discuss the history of goods transport and passenger navigation on the Vistula, development of water sports in Kraków and the environmental and recreation benefits of our section of the river. It’s worth adding that the stretch of the Vistula flowing through Kraków is longer than just the river bend by Wawel Hill – it runs for 40 kilometres from the mouth of the Skawinka in the west to the Kościelnicki Stream in the east.
Legends and traditions
The Vistula in Kraków is surrounded by myriad legends and traditions, many of which have given rise to popular outdoor events. The oldest and largest is the Wianki festival, held since the mid-19th century. Originally, it was tied to the legend about King Krak and his daughter Wanda, and the wreaths floated on the river by young girls were a fond recollection of traditions of our ancestors. The event was a form of patriotic expression during the partitions and it was maintained during the interwar period. Today, Wianki – organised by KBF – has transformed into a citywide Fête de la Musique. In the 21st century, riverside festivities also include the Great Dragon Parade organised by the Groteska Theatre and the wintertime “dragging of the dragon” over the Vistula by the “Kaloryfer” club of winter swimmers. Since 2012, Kraków has been hosting the Water Critical Mass event – Poland’s only annual festival organised by artists, animators, non-governmental organisations and lovers of Kraków to promote environmental attitudes.
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So, who DOES own the Vistula? According to the law, like all rivers in Poland it is public property available to all. The exhibition Vistula. Re-creation and the accompanying discussions on the current role of the river in our city have been co-created by representatives of different circles. Exhibition curator Mateusz Niemiec says, “Cracovian Vistula and its nearest surroundings are being shaped anew by ongoing activities of municipal institutions, businesses, activists and everyday users.”
Dorota Dziunikowska
The article published in the 2/2022 issue of “Kraków Culture” quarterly.
